BY KARI HOEL
PHOTOS BY KARI HOEL

I think most visitors to Bangkok are struck by the size of the city. It is big, both in terms of geography and population. And not all of it is pretty. But the city has it all – culture, history, shopping and nightlife. You just need to bring a good guidebook in order to find it all.

My husband and I stayed in the Siam Square area, which is the primary shopping district, and we used our guidebook a lot (Thailand Travel Guide and Bangkok Encounter Guide, both published by Lonely Planet), which made it possible to find some wonderful places. We lived it up a bit, and stayed at the Amari Watergate Hotel and Spa. Everything was very nice: The room, the service, the view, the food, not to mention the pool area on the 8th floor. It is a big business-like hotel, so you do not get a warm fuzzy feeling when walking into the large, air-conditioned lobby. However, when you are determined to spend some time shopping, the Amari Watergate is a good location as the big shopping centers are very close by.

I have already mentioned the s-word. Bangkok is famous for its shopping opportunities, and rightly so. I spent a lot of time at MBK, Paragon, Siam Center and Central World Plaza – four large shopping complexes. As we stayed in Bangkok both in the beginning and end of our trip, I did ”research” in the beginning, then went back and actually spent money when we returned. I was a bit surprised that it was difficult to find stores that had Thai-inspired clothing. Last time we were in Bangkok was four years ago, and I am not sure if there were more non-western brands back then, but there were probably fewer shopping centers. The price is still a bit lower than Europe, but it might be a close race. The selection, however, is good! And if you are able to find a good tailor, you can get some great deals on custom-made suits, dresses etc.

As for the more lasting experiences: Most of the cultural/historical sites are in the Ratanakosin District. As this was our second time in Bangkok, we had seen many of the temples the first time we were there. This time we took a boat trip on the Chao Phraya river, which was a very pleasant way to spend a few hours and at the same time see Bangkok from a different angle. The boat left from Saphan Taksin, which is at the end of one of the SkyTrain (metro) lines.

The boat stopped at about 15 piers, but most of the passengers (including us) got off at the pier close to the Wat Arun, also called the Temple of the Dawn. It is shaped as a tower, and we climbed the steep stairs and got quite a good view of the river.

As Bangkok has several tall buildings, you can get a good look of the city from several places. The Baiyoke Tower is the tallest building in Bangkok, around 1000 ft. tall. It has a 360-degree revolving deck on the 84th floor. It is worth a visit, but the Sirocco Skybar in the Silom area is a far better choice. The Sirocco is at the rooftop of the State Tower, and the open air bar and restaurant are spectacular. However, we did not stay there for long: There was no alcohol being served due to a pre-election, and we could not get a table at the restaurant. (Actually, I was a bit relieved that we could not get a table, the prices were pretty stiff.) So we enjoyed the view and the jazz music while sipping our soft drinks, then headed off to find a place to eat.

Good food is easy to find in Thailand, and eating/drinking is generally very cheap. The dinner restaurants we visited were all very good, and they were in different neighborhoods. The most romantic place was” Once Upon a Time” in Pratunam, not far from our hotel. It has a lovely garden, fountains, delicious Thai food, and it is simply an oasis. It is not a place you ”stumble across”, however. If on Petchaburi road, walk into soi 17 and keep walking for some minutes, or simply find a taxi…

Another oasis is Ban Chiang is in the Silom area, and it has quite a few similarities with Once Upon a Time. The restaurant does not have a home page, but Fodors has a recommendation. A great place with a nice garden and excellent Thai food.

If you are in the mood for a good steak, Neil’s Tavern is the place to go. There are two Neil’s Tavern in Bangkok, and we were at the one at Soi Ruam Rudee, which is in the Sukhumvit area. The food is great, the atmosphere not all that exciting. The restaurant would fit in well in any western city, and you do not get the sense of being in Thailand when eating here.

One of our last experiences in Bangkok was Jim Thompson’s house. Jim Thompson was an American who settled down in Bangkok after WWII, and he became a successful businessman in the silk industry. He disappeared mysteriously in 1967. His house, however, is kept the way it was when he lived there, and it is a mix of Thai and western architecture, and both the property and the house are very pretty. There are Jim Thompson stores several places in Bangkok, including at the house, and they are great places to buy souvenirs that are not tacky, for instance nice, high quality t-shirts, hats and bags.

As an end note, the guide who showed us around the Jim Thompson house, finished the tour by stating smilingly: ”It has been a great pressure being your guide today”. Thai people are courteous, hospitable and charming, and what makes them even more charming is the inability to pronounce the letter L.