When talking to someone who has been to Thailand, the subject of visiting the islands always comes up. There is a reason for that: Thailand has several islands that are worth the visit. This time, I visited two of them: Ko Samui and Ko Tao, situated on the south-eastern coast. They are close in proximity, but widely different in all other aspects.

Ko Samui

The choice of Ko Samui was based on two practical considerations: It has an airport, and it is easy to get to Ko Tao from Ko Samui. My husband and I flew from Siem Reap in Cambodia via Bangkok to Ko Samui. When we arrived, it rained heavily for a couple of hours, and we began to wonder if we had made a mistake in going to this island. But when the sun appeared, we were not in doubt anymore – it was a gorgeous place.

We stayed at the northern side of the island, and the “beach choice” was based solely on what our guide book, Thailand Travel Guide by Lonely Planet, said: “Our favourite beach on the island, Hat Bo Phut serves up the Samui you didn’t think existed anymore. World’s away from the clutter of Chaweng and Lamai, Bo Phut is a quiet and romantic spot.”
We stayed at Eden Bungalows, a charming hotel with 15 spacious rooms and a pool.

The eating and drinking options in Hat Bo Phut are of high quality and relatively costly compared to other parts of Thailand. All the restaurants and bars we visited were good. The best restaurant was by far Villa Bianca, a wonderful Italian restaurant. It has white walls and white linen-covered tables, but the candlelight, the decorations and the sound (and sight) of the beach contributed to a romantic atmosphere. We had aperitifs, pasta dishes for our main course, red wine and Irish Coffee, and the price was about 3 500 Baht (about 105 USD). It was probably our most expensive meal in Thailand, but worth it.

Renting motorbikes appeared to be the most common way to see the island, but we chose to rent a car instead. In one day, you get an impression of the island, although you do not get to know the island. My main impression was that I was really, really glad we were staying at Hat Bo Phut! There are many wonderful beaches on Ko Samui, but there are also many towns by these beaches that are not very charming, as McDonald’s, Burger King, 7-Eleven and shops that sell low-quality merchandise appear to have taken over some places.

After three days at Ko Samui we decided it was time to move on, and we were both very excited that we were going to Ko Tao again, four years after we were there last.

Ko Tao

Getting to Ko Tao from Ko Samui takes two-three hours on a boat. The boat also stops at Ko Pha-Ngan, well-known for its Full Moon parties. As we like to go to bed early and rise early, we decided not to check it out (I know…we are boring people).

Ko Tao is a diver’s paradise, but until lately, there has been little less to do than scuba diving. But things have changed! The main town (Ban Mae Hat) had grown noticeably, there were at least twice as many restaurants, hotels, diving schools, shops etc. as it was four years ago. And there are now tattoo parlors, massage places and internet cafes and all over the place. The good news is that Ko Tao has not lost its charming atmosphere.

(View of the sunset from our bungalow)

We stayed at the beach north of Ban Mae Hat, at Tommy’s Dive Resort. We stayed in the same bungalow as we did last time we were there, situated right on the water. It cost about 1 500 Baht (45 USD) per night, which is a bargain if you value a wonderful location more than high standard accommodation.

There are several good eating options in Ko Tao, and we ate most our meals at the beach north of our bungalow (Hat Sai Ri), and some days in the town Ban Mae Hat. Hat Sai Ri has a myriad of bars/restaurants situated right on the beach, In Touch being our favorite hangout. Generally, food and drinks are very cheap, and the menus are extensive: You can have anything from Thai dishes to Italian dishes and American pancakes, and it all tastes good. You can easily spend less than USD 10 on a main course. Some places, for instance Whitening in Ban Mae Hat, are a bit more expensive, but also a more “classy” beach restaurant than the ones in Hat Sai Ri.

So…what do you do except eating, drinking, scuba diving or swimming? Some years ago, the answer was “not much”. These days, it is easier. You can go on a snorkeling trip or a boat trip, rent a motor bike or a kayak, visit the shops (not much interesting stuff to buy, mind you) or hang out at a beach. Hanging out on the beach is one of my favorite things to do, so quite a few hours were spent doing that. We also rented kayaks, which is a nice way to get some exercise and see the parts of the island that are not accessible by road.

We walked across the island one day, which was a fun (and hot) adventure. On the way, we walked up to a viewpoint of the island, which was a nice detour. The eastern part of the island is more secluded and quiet than the western part of the island. By staying here, you gain tranquility, but lose the choice of great, inexpensive restaurants and bars that I appreciate so much.

We spent six days at Ko Tao, including Christmas. During the evening of Christmas day, several hundred paper lanterns were lit and floated across the sky, enhancing the already wonderful atmosphere of celebrating Christmas on a beautiful beach in Thailand with great food and drinks and my husband by my side. May all Christmases be as merry as this!

I think most visitors to Bangkok are struck by the size of the city. It is big, both in terms of geography and population. And not all of it is pretty. But the city has it all – culture, history, shopping and nightlife. You just need to bring a good guidebook in order to find it all.

My husband and I stayed in the Siam Square area, which is the primary shopping district, and we used our guidebook a lot (Thailand Travel Guide and Bangkok Encounter Guide, both published by Lonely Planet), which made it possible to find some wonderful places. We lived it up a bit, and stayed at the Amari Watergate Hotel and Spa. Everything was very nice: The room, the service, the view, the food, not to mention the pool area on the 8th floor. It is a big business-like hotel, so you do not get a warm fuzzy feeling when walking into the large, air-conditioned lobby. However, when you are determined to spend some time shopping, the Amari Watergate is a good location as the big shopping centers are very close by.

I have already mentioned the s-word. Bangkok is famous for its shopping opportunities, and rightly so. I spent a lot of time at MBK, Paragon, Siam Center and Central World Plaza – four large shopping complexes. As we stayed in Bangkok both in the beginning and end of our trip, I did ”research” in the beginning, then went back and actually spent money when we returned. I was a bit surprised that it was difficult to find stores that had Thai-inspired clothing. Last time we were in Bangkok was four years ago, and I am not sure if there were more non-western brands back then, but there were probably fewer shopping centers. The price is still a bit lower than Europe, but it might be a close race. The selection, however, is good! And if you are able to find a good tailor, you can get some great deals on custom-made suits, dresses etc.

As for the more lasting experiences: Most of the cultural/historical sites are in the Ratanakosin District. As this was our second time in Bangkok, we had seen many of the temples the first time we were there. This time we took a boat trip on the Chao Phraya river, which was a very pleasant way to spend a few hours and at the same time see Bangkok from a different angle. The boat left from Saphan Taksin, which is at the end of one of the SkyTrain (metro) lines.

The boat stopped at about 15 piers, but most of the passengers (including us) got off at the pier close to the Wat Arun, also called the Temple of the Dawn. It is shaped as a tower, and we climbed the steep stairs and got quite a good view of the river.

As Bangkok has several tall buildings, you can get a good look of the city from several places. The Baiyoke Tower is the tallest building in Bangkok, around 1000 ft. tall. It has a 360-degree revolving deck on the 84th floor. It is worth a visit, but the Sirocco Skybar in the Silom area is a far better choice. The Sirocco is at the rooftop of the State Tower, and the open air bar and restaurant are spectacular. However, we did not stay there for long: There was no alcohol being served due to a pre-election, and we could not get a table at the restaurant. (Actually, I was a bit relieved that we could not get a table, the prices were pretty stiff.) So we enjoyed the view and the jazz music while sipping our soft drinks, then headed off to find a place to eat.

Good food is easy to find in Thailand, and eating/drinking is generally very cheap. The dinner restaurants we visited were all very good, and they were in different neighborhoods. The most romantic place was” Once Upon a Time” in Pratunam, not far from our hotel. It has a lovely garden, fountains, delicious Thai food, and it is simply an oasis. It is not a place you ”stumble across”, however. If on Petchaburi road, walk into soi 17 and keep walking for some minutes, or simply find a taxi…

Another oasis is Ban Chiang is in the Silom area, and it has quite a few similarities with Once Upon a Time. The restaurant does not have a home page, but Fodors has a recommendation. A great place with a nice garden and excellent Thai food.

If you are in the mood for a good steak, Neil’s Tavern is the place to go. There are two Neil’s Tavern in Bangkok, and we were at the one at Soi Ruam Rudee, which is in the Sukhumvit area. The food is great, the atmosphere not all that exciting. The restaurant would fit in well in any western city, and you do not get the sense of being in Thailand when eating here.

One of our last experiences in Bangkok was Jim Thompson’s house. Jim Thompson was an American who settled down in Bangkok after WWII, and he became a successful businessman in the silk industry. He disappeared mysteriously in 1967. His house, however, is kept the way it was when he lived there, and it is a mix of Thai and western architecture, and both the property and the house are very pretty. There are Jim Thompson stores several places in Bangkok, including at the house, and they are great places to buy souvenirs that are not tacky, for instance nice, high quality t-shirts, hats and bags.

As an end note, the guide who showed us around the Jim Thompson house, finished the tour by stating smilingly: ”It has been a great pressure being your guide today”. Thai people are courteous, hospitable and charming, and what makes them even more charming is the inability to pronounce the letter L.

Three days in Cambodia is too little, but enough to find out that the Angkor temples are among the world’s most incredible sites.

A little bit of geography: The Angkor temples are 7 km from the town Siem Reap. Siem Reap is in the north-western part of Cambodia, and it has an international airport. My husband and I flew there from Bangkok, which was an efficient way to travel as we had limited time. Travelers whose funds are more limited than their time, get there by bus/taxi, or by boat from Phnom Penh.

Most visitors to the Angkor temples rent a tuk-tuk with a driver. We decided to combine exercise and sightseeing, so we rented bicycles instead. We loved it! The bikes very not very good (the rental price was USD 2 per day), but it did not matter as the area is very flat and easy to cycle around regardless of the quality of the bike. Also, Cambodian drivers are courteous and drive carefully (in sharp contrast to Thai drivers), so we were not worried about being run down by maniac drivers.

One great thing about the Angkor temples is that they are spread out on a large geographical area, which makes it easier to take in some sites at a time and not try to see it all in a too short time. Three days is enough time to see the main sites without rushing it.

The first, and largest, temple you get to is the Angkor Wat. It is the best preserved temple, and it is surrounded by a moat which forms a giant rectangle. Despite the fact that all visitors to the Angkor temples go here, it is surprisingly calm and quiet, due to the large size of the temple and the grounds surrounding it.

Moving a few kilometers along the road that goes past Angkor Wat, you get to Angkor Thom, a fortified city. The main temple here is the Bayon, which looks like a mess from a distance.

Once you enter the temple, you see that it is not a mess at all…the temple carvings consists for a big part of faces, and it is fascinating to have these faces looking at you from all angles as you walk around. There are also lots of smaller temples behind the Bayon, very different in shape and architecture, and it is worth checking out at least some of them.

The last of the big “must-see” temples (besides the Angkor Wat and the Bayon) is the Ta Prohm. This is also the temple that is furthest away. As I described that the Bayon looks like a mess from a distance, I am not sure how I should describe Ta Prohm…perhaps like a mess that looks like it has been hit by a bomb and then abandoned.

It is really something else, though – giant roots and huge trees make their way through the temple walls. In the movie Tomb Raider, part of the movie took place in Ta Prohm (or at least a studio that pretended to be Ta Prohm). It is also the most “hidden” of the temples – it is in a forest, which adds to the secluded atmosphere of the temple.

Siem Reap is not a big town, but the choice of accommodation, restaurants and bars is huge. We stayed at the Bopha Angkor , which I can highly recommend. A standard room costs 45 USD a night, and the hotel has excellent service, a pool area, a great restaurant and a good location. I was in a pizza mood when we were in Siem Reap, and both Ecstatic Pizza and Kampuccino Pizza had great food, good atmosphere and low prices. Another good restaurant and pub worth visiting is the Red Piano, situated in a colonial-style house on a busy corner of the Bar Street (I believe that is actually the name of the street, and I suspect it was named that in the not-too-distant past). There are also night markets with food stalls, where the food is even cheaper and just as good as the food served in restaurants, so visitors can pick and choose from a large selection of food and drinks in Siem Reap.

Like Thailand, Cambodia is full of smiling, courteous people who try their best to make visitors comfortable. And achieving this in a successful manner. If I had more time, I would have liked to check out much more of the country, for instance Phnom Penh and the coastline. Judging from my Cambodian experience, it is worth spending some time in this country, and it is probably a good idea to do it now.